A Picture-Perfect Place to Play
Turtle Bay Resort
A Picture-Perfect Place to Play ~ Turtle Bay Resort
by Brandi Brower, Travel Editor
As I look out my window, a blanket of white spreads out as far as the tree line and the mountain range in the distance. It's winter. I grew up with all four seasons, and the older I get, the less I like shoveling snow, and the more I dream of escaping somewhere tropical.
The fallback plan is to reminisce about my most recent taste of the tropics during my adventure in Hawaii. The North Shore of Oahu, to be exact. The award-winning, secluded, and exceptional property is the Turtle Bay Resort. Flying into Honolulu, the juxtaposition of many skyscrapers towering over the palm trees below is odd. But this is the capital of Hawaii and the central hub for business, finance, hospitality, and military defense, with a population of close to a million. So, it makes sense to see so much concrete in the jungle. Even though the architecture screams the seventies, the Don Ho heyday of Hawaii, there is a vibe of nostalgia when times were simpler, and everyone wanted to "hang loose!"
The populated and high tourist traffic area of Honolulu and the famous Waikiki Beach are a world away from the almost country-like quiet of the Northern region. There seems to be a dichotomy at play between the South and North Shore - the melting pot of tourism, high-end shopping, industry, and politics of Honolulu, and just an hour's drive along HI-83, you're in a completely different place, with farmstands dotting the roadside and kids barefoot on bikes with boogie boards under their arms. If landing in Hawaii was an exhale moment, arriving at the North Shore took my breath away.
I can see my breath as I walk out to my mailbox. Under the recent wind chill advisory issued by the weather service with a "feels like" temp of 12 degrees below zero, my reality makes me "feel like" I want to return to 80 degrees and sunny in Turtle Bay. Of the main Hawaiian islands, Oahu is driest regarding the weather. You can't have a bad weather day with the shining sun year-long most of the time, usually along the coast; it's practically perfect. With the consistency of gorgeous weather combined with the quiet comfort of the pristine North Shore, it's a recipe for respite.
Laid back five-star luxury, the Turtle Bay Resort is not only the oldest and venerable landmark on the block but also the only one on the block. The iconic property celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2023 and has been the grand dame of Oahu's North Shore for half a century. Sprawling over 1300 lush acres of natural landscape and historic land, with miles and miles of wild coastline real estate to explore, on the edge of Kuilima Point in Kahuku, there's reason to celebrate the longevity of the peninsula paradise. They are the only ones on the block because they own the block.
Hawaii is the hale (or home) of surfing; it's where it all began. The ritual, the boards, the ride, and the vibe -it's woven within the culture. The "Seven Mile Miracle" is within that history, a concentrated stretch of 36 surf spots along a distinct section of Kamehameha Highway and the celebrated mecca of world-class surf breaks. Just up the road from this stretch of surfing nirvana is the Turtle Bay Resort. Unsurprisingly, the resort embraced the surfing scene and wave-chasing culture of the North Shore, capitalizing on that cool aesthetic when completing the 250-million-dollar/several-year renovation project. Taking advantage of the Covid downturn, the transformative transition, courtesy of Dianna Wong Architecture + Interior Design, the resort was taken down to the studs and built back up in terms of its entire foundation and structure. With the refurbishment of its 450 guest rooms, 42 high-end bungalows, and the opening of a new 11,000 square foot spa, along with two new restaurants and bar, the decor, sprinkled with hints and homages to the surfing culture, enhances the unique property. The designer replaced the kitschy lava rock and classic aloha decor with a light and inviting subtle color palette, weaving in linen, wicker, and other natural fibers to brighten the once-dark spaces.
The dramatic entrance to the porte-cochère is a circular driveway lined with 15-foot surfboards. The exterior of the actual Y-shaped premises isn't particularly impressive. However, when I realized the method to the madness, with the three-pronged building on the peninsula, every side of the building had a view of the ocean, and every guest was greeted with an oceanview room. Even more dramatic is the expansive lobby. Pre-renovation, one side of the lobby housed executive/admin offices. Thanks to the reimagining of Hilo native and award-winning architect Rob Iopa, walls were replaced with windows, opening up the opportunity for panoramic views, a complete open-air space, and a gorgeous gathering hotspot for the guests both day and night. Clusters of conversation seating areas include a few larger rounded bench bays with large open-air circular skylights above for stargazing and cozy firepits below. The Off the Lip lobby bar is tucked between these seated sections, offering craft cocktails and snacks while watching the pool plunging below.
Greeted with the traditional floral lei, the host also offered one of their famous banana bread lattes, a popular item at the Ho'olana eatery onsite, offering coffee, smoothies, and quick bites for breakfast and lunch. I hop into a golf cart to get a lay of the "crown land" upon which the resort rests, once ruled by King Kamehameha III. My guide takes me along endless sandy/dirt paths, meandering through the 12 miles of trails to utilize and passing by three separate serene beaches - one so picturesque that it is featured in several films. I'll follow up with more on that fact.
We drive across the road to the on-property farm at the resort. Having your food source onsite makes being a fully sustainable resort easier. The beautiful 468 acres of lush agriculture provide 700 lbs. of produce for use weekly in the resort's varied menu offerings and libations, and the on-property farm serves the surrounding community. Kuilima Farm offers its bounty at the colorful roadside stands and provides leasing space to local farmers for community gardening and training in responsible farming practices. Kuilima Farms was a surprise feature on the Turtle Bay tour that reflected not only the natural beauty of the island but also the concentrated efforts to stay deeply connected to the land itself. *Try the Banana Lumpia, where brown sugar, fruit, and deep fry collide - a farmstand fave.
You know you are at a unique beach resort when it features an onsite equestrian facility: the token tractor, antique-looking wooden wagon, charming red-painted barn, and a coral of pretty ponies, all abutting an ocean yards away. There are many offerings for horseback riding for both young and old, all beginning and ending on this appointed plot. This spot is also the perfect backdrop for the weekly Paniolo, Hawaiian Cowboy Luau. The traditional Hawaiian feast with a twist: Paniolo [pah-nee-oh-loh] A person who herds cattle; cowboy - is the theme of the Thursday evening event celebrating Hawaii's rich cowboy and ranching heritage. The pai'na (dinner party) features some traditional fare accented with Southwestern/South American influences. A few highlights included grass-fed meat from local Hawaiian ranches smoked for 11 hours in preparation for the buffet feast, the vintage horse trailers retrofitted into a cash bar, and the live entertainment.
As the tour of the property winds down, we pass by the infamous Banyan tree along one of the many paths. This impressive tree spans over a hundred feet tall. Its expansive aerial root system extends from its branches—a striking backdrop just feet away from one of the beautiful secluded beaches, an excellent setting for movies—featured prominently in Pirates of the Caribbean, Hunger Games, and the T.V. series Lost. The Turtle Bay Resort is a popular spot for filming blockbuster hits and over 150 movies and television shows. With the gorgeous vegetation and dramatic volcanic mountain formations down to the magnificent ocean scapes, it's a cinematic paradise. As I look out my window and see the piles of heavy snow and ice-laden tree limbs, it seems like a sequel to Stanley Kubrick's famous film The Shining could be filmed here. I digress.
All rooms have an ocean view, but mine is spectacular as it is at the end of the building, which abuts the edge of the property overlooking the crashing waves against the volcanic rock, also facing west to soak up the unbelievable sunsets. This highly sought-after oceanfront club king suite is on the 6th floor; with the extended lanai, large chaise lounger for two, table, and chairs, it's an inviting space for panoramic viewing of nature's magic. The sliding doors open completely, so the outdoors feel a part of the suite. Rising in the morning to the sound of the rolling waves and the scent of the sea is a beautiful wake-up call. Even though I'm in the main building, the suite is massive. It feels like it's my private bungalow with a dining area and bank of cabinetry with a Nespresso machine and refrigerator, over to the living space with a comfy sleeper sofa and ottoman, with a large flat screen t.v. over a bank of six large dresser drawers and large standing closet as the endcap. On the opposite side of the room is an eye-catching floor-to-ceiling photo mural. The deep blues and turquoise green of the surfer p.o.v of the inside of a wave is a striking splash of color for the room that consists of casual beachcomber neutrals. The crisp white comforter is accented with the blonde-stained wooden headboard and floating shelf bedside tables. A slab panel door rolls on the track, opening into the bathroom, featuring a marble sink with a sizeable round-lit mirror above. Two glass-hinged doors, one for the toilet space and the other for the massive, walk-in stoned shower, are adjacent to an additional closet. The practicality of a wooden pocket door for privacy or the opportunity to open up and take in the view of the ocean while bathing in the stand-alone bathtub is a bonus feature.
If you desire an even more secluded North Shore experience, the Ocean Bungalows at Turtle Bay are an indulgent option. There are 42 oceanfront villas, 714 square feet of intimate space, with 15-foot vaulted ceilings, walk-in showers, soaking tubs, and patios, just a few steps from the beach. With a private infinity pool for bungalow guests only and a personal concierge assigned to you for your every whim, you can only imagine these beautiful accommodations were host to many actors filming on location. You'd feel like a movie star staying here.
If more than the spacious room, with the incredible view from the top floor, is needed, the access to the Ocean Club Lounge is the cherry on top. With the coveted suite, you can access the exclusive lounge, dedicated concierge service, and complimentary food and drinks in the private indoor/outdoor space overlooking the pools below and the beautiful bay beyond. Wearing my waterproof wristband, which serves as my room key and entry into the lounge, I utilize this generous perk to my visit. I frequented the curated cuisine daily for breakfast, lunch, and evening appetizer snacks, which are created with the fresh ingredients of the resort's farm. *Try the Uncle's Ku Aloha ice cream sandwiches made locally on the North Shore for a frosty treat.
The resort offers several dining options onsite: Beach House by Roy Yamaguchi is an open-air restaurant near Kuilima Cove. Chef Roy shares his family's favorite dishes and signature style using the freshest local ingredients from farmers, fishermen, and ranchers. An extension of the restaurant is the Beach Club, where service is rendered to you in comfy cabanas on the beach, soaking up the beach scene while consuming the delectable bites and cocktails from Roy's just a stone's throw away. Lei Lei's Bar and Grill, a local favorite, uses the golf course as the backdrop for casual cuisine. Alaia' is known for its modern take on Hawaiian comfort fare, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. A great place to watch the sun dip down into the horizon while dining on delectable delights: Garden Beet Trio - Roasted Golden, Ruby Red Purée, Shaved Chioggia, Arugula, Hawaiian Heart of Palm, Nasturtium Vinaigrette for a starter and the Ali'i Mushroom Tagliatelle - Mushroom Cream Sauce, Truffle Oil, Shaved Parmesan, with Jumbo Prawns, and ending with Mile High Turtle Bay Pie - Pecan Cheesecake Hawaiian Sea Salt Caramel, Chocolate Cookie Crust.
Lastly, Sunset at Turtle Bay is the heart of the hotel. Next to the pools, this outdoor bar and eatery have the perfect vantage point to watch the surfers catching the last waves of the day while admiring the colorful display of the sun's light disappearing. With tables and chairs scattered around the pool deck, live music, fire pits, and ocean breezes are an excellent combination for the chill atmosphere. *Try the Okonomiyaki Fries - house tare, wasabi aioli, ao nori, katsuo flakes, and green onion.
The resort experiences available to guests are extensive and listed daily, not surprisingly, on a surfboard near the concierge desk. My first outing was a kayak turtle-watching tour in Kawela Bay. Turtle Bay Resort is aptly named for the "Honu," or green turtles that reside in the ocean, a significant animal to Hawaiian culture. Legend states that long ago, the green turtles were the original guides showing ancient Polynesians how to get to the Hawaiian islands. They are considered ancestral spirits, offering good luck, protection, peace, and longevity. It was an incredible opportunity to see these majestic island navigators swimming alongside the kayak and poking their heads up to say hello.
I also enjoyed the cultural bike tour on Murf electric beach bikes. The unique guided ride takes you to the several beaches on the property, along the two golf courses, and through the miles of trails on the 1300 acres. Our resort team member was born in the area and well versed in the storied past of the island kings. She pointed out the seven different "ahupua'a," or traditional Hawaiian land divisions with distinct characteristics and history. She also shared the story of the "shaka." The birth of "hang loose" or the "shaka" hand gesture was from this side of the island in the early 1900s. To make the shaka, you curl your three middle fingers while extending your thumb and baby finger. For emphasis, quickly turn your hand back and forth with your knuckles facing outward. This local expression of courtesy has other connotations like" "things are great," "take it easy," and "thank you."
As the folklore goes, Kahuku Sugar Mill worker Hamana Kalili lost his middle three fingers on the job. After the accident, he was asked to be the security officer, in charge of the train running between Kaaawa and Sunset Beach. He was responsible for preventing kids from jumping on the train for a joy ride. Whenever he spotted the kids attempting to hop on, he would yell and wave his hand. Seeing the wave of only a thumb and a little finger was strange. The stowaways soon adopted the wave as a signal to each other that the security guard Kalili was not looking; the coast was clear to hop onto the train.
Additional island adventures to consider: James O'Brien Surf Experience, onsite surf lessons for all ages and levels, two 18-hole golf courses - Arnold Palmer and George Fazio design, as well as a newly added 18-hole putting course, four tennis and pickleball courts, helicopter tours, outrigger, Segway, paddleboard tours, mountain biking, even an island scavenger hunt. There are several options for younger guests, including the Mermaid Academy, stargazing, lei-making, the Brave Mermaid Show, bird-watching, coconut frond weaving, ukulele and Hulu lessons, lawn games, beach picnics, pony meet and greet, night snorkeling.
Basking by the adults-only infinity pool on the terraced pool deck, laying on one of the in-pool shelf lounge chairs in the family-friendly pool, or watching little guests enjoy the two slides in the kids' pool, the leisure water scene is a focal point of the resort, with plenty of cabanas, deck chairs, umbrellas, and staff to keep towels, food and beverages flowing. The aquatic area is perfectly positioned, with southern exposure for optimal sun, views of the volcanic peaks above, and the ocean's swells below with the silhouettes of surfers on their boards, waiting for one last big wave of the day- a picture-perfect place to play.
A little rest and reset at the newly renovated Nula Spa. The 11,000-square-foot sprawl of design enhancement is the perfect space for specialty treatments and massages; it turns the resort into a retreat for mind, body, and spirit. An ocean oasis of self-care in outdoor cabanas and garden treatment rooms within earshot of the waves, choose from their extensive list of massages, facials, body treatments, and beautification with hair, make-up, and nails. A fully equipped fitness center with floor-to-ceiling windows makes the workouts less work, with a beautiful view to admire and a movement studio where Pilates Reformer, Spin, and Barre classes are available.
Lately, my workouts have been shoveling the snow off my front porch. But I am grateful for the ability to shake the little snow globe in my mind and gaze at the memory of the extraordinary solitude of the North Shore, the untouched beauty of this Polynesian paradise, the loving people I encountered who generously shared their history and culture, and the "shaka" spirit I packed in my bag and brought back home with me. Like the legend where the "Honu," green turtles, guided the ancient peoples on how to get to the Hawaiian islands- these memories of Turtle Bay will guide me back.