A Luxury Bubble off Las Vegas Boulevard
Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas
by Brandi Brower, Travel Editor
I may be dating myself, but my core memory of Las Vegas was Circus Circus in the late 70s and early 80s in my youth. I would spend hours running around the midway of the carnival-themed casino while my parents dabbled in the delights of rolling the proverbial dice. Plastic cups overflowed with coins, and they sat on the bedside table of our hotel room. My mother's minuscule winnings on the slot machines conjured covetous thoughts as I wished I was old enough to try my luck. I remember the smell of smoke, wearing my favorite summer halter dress, and the dining experience at the budget-friendly buffet, realizing my adverse reaction to Chuck-A-Rama and Golden Corals my entire life stemmed from this gluttonous gallery of gorging under the Big Top.
My next recollection of the City of Lost Wages was traveling through Las Vegas during my college years, a fun pit-stop on the way to Spring Break in Southern California, pulling off of I-15 South to drive down Las Vegas Boulevard, to absorb the energy from the neon and observe the action from the crowded sidewalks, that was enough for me. The famous slogan: "What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas" doesn't apply if you're merely driving down the strip and stopping at the 7-11 to buy snacks for the remainder of the road trip.
My knowledge of this renowned resort destination could have improved as an adult. It's ranked as one of the most visited cities in the U.S. -it is a fan favorite for over 40 million visitors annually. I had to find out what there was to offer besides the stereotypes created through cinema: gold-digging cocktail servers and down-on-their-luck gamblers, washed-up lounge singers, Elvis impersonators, or middle-of-the-night nuptials at the famous Little White Wedding Chapel. I wasn't looking for the cliche What happens here, stays here, "Hangover" experience. They say you haven't made it until you've played in Vegas. I was wondering what my definition of Viva Las Vegas would look like, but I was excited to find out.
My return to Sin City was going to be light on the sin. It's just not in my DNA. I have no real vices, but that doesn't mean I can't dip my toe in the pool. I arrived at the Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas with an open mind. I liken it to a secret hideaway, so hidden that many people don't know of its existence. Located on the South end of the strip, it's part of the Mandalay property, a glittering tower that glows like a brick of gold when the hot desert sun sizzles upon it. My cab turns off the strip to a driveway lined with palm trees and gardens but very discreet in its design. An ornate fountain and large porte-cochère greet us, but no neon or flashy fanfare that one would expect in this city of lights. I'm formally welcomed by the bellman, who whisks us through to the lobby, where there is no wait on check-in. Las Vegas has 164,000 hotel rooms, making it the largest hospitality market in the U.S. It would take 288 years for one person to spend one night in every hotel room in Las Vegas. The largest property on the strip has over five thousand rooms. So you can imagine the reception lines to check in their guests.
The beauty of the Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas is that it's like a boutique hotel among the giants, with 424 rooms, 81 of which are suites, situated between the 35th and 39th floors of the Mandalay Bay Tower. It's one of the smallest hotels in Las Vegas, but with that designation comes the power of being present. Upon my arrival, my first impression was the staff's total presence, as if I was a dignitary they had been preparing to receive. From the warm welcome of the reception staff to the valet who showed me to my room, I felt genuine hospitality from minute one. Undoubtedly, the attentiveness and renowned Four Seasons service is one of the reasons it received the AAA Five-Diamond Award just six months after opening its doors. This award-winning hotel has garnered many accolades, including the most recent recognition of being named #1 in "Best Hotels in Las Vegas" and "Best Hotel" in Nevada" by U.S. News and World Report 2024.
My accommodations were on the 36th floor; as the team member set my luggage, my mouth was agape at the floor-to-ceiling wall of glass windows with a perfect view of the four-mile length of the strip. The glow of the setting sun is a natural contrast to the brightness of the artificial brilliance below. As the sun fades, the illumination intensifies, and so does my desire to explore. But what the head wants, sometimes the body doesn't follow; my long travel day contributed to my decision to stay in and enjoy my beautiful room and take advantage of the extensive 24-hour in-room dining menu.
The room: a beautifully appointed space with subtle touches. A redesigned space to emulate the morning light of the Mojave Desert. The 500 square feet of modern comfort reflects Nevada's natural surroundings, calming creams and muted taupes with nods of lacquered and silver accents and black and white framed art pieces punctuating the room—subdued serenity. The marble bathroom is a tranquil retreat with a spacious walk-in shower and soaking tub—the mini-bar, cozy chairs, and dining table round off my expectations.
I'm ready to slip into my comfy Four Seasons robe and enjoy the Greek salad with Salmon, Mushroom Duxells with Ricotta, and an extra spoiler, a chocolate milkshake. Room service is a special treat; this late-night dining was prepared and delivered perfectly. The Four Seasons King-sized bed and cozy bedding are the remedy for a perfect night's sleep. My exploration of this glitzy town will have to wait until tomorrow.
The early bird catches the pastry at Press. Located in the first-floor lobby, by day, this lounge area is the perfect spot for grab-n-go breakfast items and coffee/tea selections. This chic and inviting quarter transforms from a place to enjoy a pick-me-up during the day to a happening hot spot for pre-dinner drinks and appetizers, pre-game libations, or perhaps a nightcap after an evening of fun on the strip. The bar's attractive basket weave metal base is a striking focal point, topped with a multifaceted marble bar top with modern brass accents. The style and comfort continue out of doors: couches, cozy chair groupings with fire pits under a trellis system, ambient bistro lighting, and surrounding trees lit up in white lights bring the party outside under the desert stars. If nothing else, it's an excellent place for glam people-watching while sipping on a craft cocktail. Unfortunately, I could not enjoy a featured event, The Bartenders Table Experience. This unique sensory journey takes you through crafting a well-balanced cocktail. In an hour-long interactive class with a skilled bartender, you are guided through the flavor wheel, learning the origin of spirits as you sip and experiment, concluding with a specialized concoction made exclusively in your honor.
After enjoying my delicious breakfast at Press, my first full day begins poolside. The exclusivity of this pool is what makes it an attractive retreat. At the base of the behemoth 43-story golden tower, this a high desert Shangri-la, a hidden gem awaits. There are plenty of cabanas, lounge chairs, umbrellas, thirsty towels, and staff to ensure your poolside pampering is complete. Palm trees outnumber the guests, a quiet enclave in contrast to other Las Vegas hotels where the pool party scene, EDM DJs blast the music, and vibrant atmosphere are the focus. The pool attendant listened attentively to my special request for seating and found me the perfect spot. The Pool Bar has a limited dining menu with standard favorites. We enjoyed sharing the braised short ribs quesadilla with caramelized onion and a Jidori Chicken Caesar Salad, Grilled Chicken Breast, Sliced Avocado, Parmesan Frico, and Green Goddess Caesar Dressing. The best part about this panache pool is that you get the best of two worlds. If you decide to plunge into a splashier pool scene, all you need to do is go through a gate into Mandalay Bay's 11-acre aquatic playground. Being a guest at the Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas gives you complete access to the extensive sister hotel's amenities, including a Lazy River, Wave Pool, adults-only pool, and pool clubs. I walked around the vast acreage but ultimately chose the quiet, liquid lounge of the Four Seasons.
Thankfully, I took advantage of the wealth of knowledge of all things Las Vegas and stopped to talk with one of the three concierges who were ready to assist. All made several suggestions and helped me plan my adventure for the night ahead, beginning with dinner onsite at Veranda. Walking to my room, I was impressed by the art installations covering the corridor on my way to the elevator. With football season upon us and the proximity of the Allegiant Stadium, home of the Las Vegas Raiders, steps from the Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas, it made sense to invite artist John Knell as its artist-in-residence. His "Art of the End Zone" was fully displayed on the walls, lining the halls with color and exciting images of football favorites. Art is a focal point for the hotel's aesthetic, sometimes inspired by special events happening in the city; next up, works by artists Paul Oz and Manu Campa share the "Art of Speed" to commemorate the Las Vegas Grand Prix Race Weekend.
Veranda, modern American cuisine with Mediterranean flair, kicked off our evening. This restaurant is the only formal sit-down eatery on site, but plans are being finalized for an additional gastronomy hotspot. I enjoyed the Grilled Tenderloin, Romesco, Herb Garlic Butter, Roasted Shallots, Truffle Whipped Potato, Spicy Broccolini, Chili Oil, Lemon, and Garlic Crunch. And for dessert, a touch of whimsy with the Cloudtini, which consisted of Chocolate, Vanilla, Strawberry Gelato, NY Cheesecake, Brownies, Vanilla Bean Chantilly, Wafer, Hot Fudge, and Cotton Candy. Leave it to the pastry chefs of Four Seasons to curate such a fanciful creation. We dined outside on the veranda of Veranda, enjoying the warm breezes and dusk light almost as much as the cuisine.
We used the house car, a large black SUV, to take us out on the town. What a lovely perk the hotel provides if your destination is within two miles of the property. When the sun sets and the nightlife lights up, the streets get filled with cabs and Uber/Lyft drivers. We tipped the driver well, as it was a challenge to jockey around the double-parked cars and crowds of people making their way to the Sphere. The venue, just completed September 2023, has quickly become an iconic fixture in the Las Vegas landscape, with the building's exosphere featuring a 580,000-square-foot LED display, which comprises 1.23 million puck-shaped LEDs spaced 8 inches apart. Visuals displayed on the exosphere included a Halloween jack-o'-lantern, a Christmas snow globe, and a funny yellow emoji face, but this night, it displayed The Eagles band lettering. The famous group, formed in the 1970s, has a residency at the Sphere into early 2025. It was a lucky break to find tickets for what has been on my bucket list for years. During the concert, Eagles guitarist Joe Walsh said, "I had a lot more fun being twenty in the 70s than I am being seventy in the 20s, but I guess it will all figure itself out." The entire show was incredible, just what you'd expect from the city known as the Entertainment Capital of the World.
We decided to walk back to our hotel after the concert. The swarm of 20,000 fans leaving the Sphere and pouring onto the strip was something to be part of. The bridge over to the Venetian, through the casino, then back out onto the strip, back through another casino, back out onto the strip... the sidewalks are barricaded for some unknown reason, which forces you to go in and out of many hotels along the strip to bypass blocked passageways. Then it hit me. The smoke, ambient noise pollution, and congestion were the epicenter of the Las Vegas spectacle. When we arrived back at the Four Seasons Hotel, our quiet refuge in a sea of chaos, walking into the gaming-free, smoke-free sanctuary at the southern end of the strip was like coming home. The exhale was audible from both of us as we entered our oasis of refuge and respite. It was eye-opening to experience the frenetic energy and glitzy excitement in the center of Sin City. But it was refreshing to return to this particular property's relaxation and peaceful ambiance, quiet, classy, and comforting. I sound like Joe Walsh, and I'm in my 70s (which I'm not), just trying to figure it all out.
The beauty of this little bubble of luxury is that you can have your casino cake and eat it, too. By pressing the "C" for the casino when in the Four Seasons elevator, you'll stop at the vestibule, where a door gets you into the Mandalay Bay hotel. All the amenities, including over two dozen bars, cafes and restaurants, gaming, shopping, and entertaining shows, are right next door. The Four Seasons interchange with Mandalay Bay allows you to conveniently charge anything to your hotel room. After you sell your soul to the slot machines, you can return through the private passageway via the touch of your room key and return home to your beautiful bubble.
The weekend brunch at Veranda is one of the most popular in Las Vegas. After indulging in classic fare and some welcomed additions, it was no surprise that this is a favorite for feasting on the weekend. The layout was perfect: the omelet bar, pastry table, salads and charcuterie, shrimp cocktail and smoked salmon, fruit assortment, yogurt, parfait and chia pudding, cereals and oatmeal, breakfast meats and potatoes. Some unique offerings: pork and shrimp shumai, cheesesteak boa buns, cauliflower mac and cheese, bacon jam and brie quiches, short rib hash, shrimp and grits, pumpkin pancakes, mascarpone cheese blintzes, and the homemade donut station were standouts. After all of that, how can one stand up? I didn't taste test everything, but I'm confident that, with the outstanding reputation of the Four Seasons, everything was delicious.
The Spa's reputation at the Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas is five stars. Luxury and seclusion continue in this award-winning facility. With unique treatments and gorgeous surroundings, a self-care splurge should be on everyone's list when visiting Vegas. The fitness center overlooks the pool and offers top-of-the-line machines and equipment to help you work off your brunch. When seeking adventure outside the city limits, there are many exclusive activities curated by Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas, such as Pink Jeep tours, kayak tours, and several unique helicopter tours if you choose to leave the bubble.
As the bellman packed my luggage into the waiting cab to take me on the short drive to the airport, I pondered on my preconceived notions about Las Vegas and realized some cliches weren't always true. I saw no gold-digging cocktail servers while staying at the Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas. Instead, I found all the staff warm, amiable, and genuinely trying to meet my needs. Not all buffets are Circus Circus buffets; the brunch at Veranda was exceptional. As for entertainment, I heard no washed-up lounge singers but skilled professionals sharing their talents. I did, however, see one Elvis impersonator.
Ultimately, I am still determining my definition of Viva Las Vegas. But the next time I come to Sin City, I'll check into my little lux bubble off Las Vegas Boulevard.