Where East Meets Best
Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi
Where East Meets Best
by Brandi Brower
The name for Japan derives from the Japanese word Nihon, which means "sun origin" or "land of the rising sun," reflecting its position in eastern Asia. The sun has not set on my adventures in this intriguing country; it has just begun. The sun is still high in the sky as my Shinkansen train slows to a stop at the famous Tokyo Station. The prominent red brick edifice, constructed in 1914, is the busiest in Japan, with over 4,000 trains arriving and departing, ushering 1.1 million people using the station daily.
Japanese proverb: Koketsu ni irazunba koji-o ezu
**Translation: If you do not enter the tiger's cave, you will not catch its cub.
Meaning: Nothing ventured, nothing gained. The train station's size, the language barrier, and the immensity of the famous city itself (data determined that Tokyo has a total land area greater and is more populated than New York City.) I feel intimidated as I make my way out to the street in the heart of the Marunouchi business district with its towering skyscrapers; this is my proverbial tiger's cave. But I'm determined to brave this new world and catch the cub.
In the Japanese culture, proverbs play an essential role, passed down through generations, touching upon almost every aspect of life. It's not just about knowing the words and their meanings; it serves as a window into the ethics and beliefs of what people value most. As I navigate my experiences in this fascinating country, I will lean into some of these proverbs and the bits of wisdom they offer.
Marunouchi District is the center of the business district of Tokyo, situated between the Imperial Palace and Tokyo Station. Marunouchi means "inside the circle," which refers to its location within the palace's outer moat. Nestled discreetly inside the heart of this bustling enterprise arena, Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi. A five-minute walk, passing Memory Lane or Yakitori Alley, where white-collar "salarymen" drop down from their high-rise towers for the small stalled eateries selling grilled meats and cold beer after work. It's a vibe with the chug, chug, clang, clang of the trains approaching/departing, the smell of yummy yakotori meat cooking, and later at night, the glow from the lanterns hanging outside the small establishments. Hidden off the busy main thoroughfare is the entrance to the Hotel. The doorman introduced me to the staff inside, who checked me in at the lovely but unassuming ground floor lobby, with high ceilings and attractive wood treatments on the walls, and showed me to the elevator.
The Hotel is on the lower floors of a 31-story glass tower, an intimate boutique hotel with just 57 rooms. This hidden gem is the perfect home base to tour all that Tokyo offers. Because of the small number of accommodations, it feels like you have the whole place to yourself, and the superior staff is there at your beck and call. Be prepared to say this phrase often: "Arigato gozaimasu." (Thank you very much.) I'm taken to my deluxe, premier room, a spacious space with clean contemporary style decor, lacquered doors and furniture, a sitting area and desk, and a soft leather-covered headboard that reaches to the top of the wall, stretching out over the bed like a canopy, an attractive add. Signature Four Seasons beds with lux linens, bathroom features a large walk-in shower and separate soaking tub. A great focal point of the corner room is the floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides overlooking the courtyard below, neighboring glass towers above, and the trains weaving around the bend. With the proximity to Tokyo station, I thought the numerous trains would be a noisy nuisance (thanks to the triple-glazed windows, there was minimal sound). Still, I found the energy of it to be a fascinating distraction, mesmerized by the intricate dance of precision transportation running seamlessly. When it's time to shut out the glimmering lights of the cityscape, I touch the button by my bedside, and the window treatments and blackout blinds are magically drawn as I drift off to sleep.
I wake up late and hurry to the restaurant, craving avocado toast. Realizing I missed the breakfast cut-off, I walk back toward the elevator. A team member stopped me and said he'd be happy to seat me and have the kitchen prepare me some breakfast bites, a small but memorable gesture. The Four Seasons brand is known for its exceptional attention to detail and treatment of guests. But there's an additional factor at play here in Japan. The mindset of the Japanese people when it comes to hospitality. A deep-rooted culture derives from the sado tea ceremony called omotenashi, meaning to look after guests wholeheartedly. That self-assured service within the walls of the Hotel is a microcosm of the country itself. Omotenashi is more than an attitude that the customer is always right; it is the understanding that every action is essential, even the smallest gesture if it ensures a great guest experience.
An example of omotenashi is when I ventured out of the Hotel to the famous "dish district." Even the mundane transaction of collecting currency or credit cards and placing the money on a small brass tray seems like a ritual of dignity, as the funds are gathered with grace and humility for the service rendered. It was a shop on Kappabashi Street, where the owner carefully wrapped my Tetsubin cast iron teapot in white tissue paper and placed it in a box as if it would be my most prized possession. How the shop owner's hand movements flow, the daily decorum of beauty, the way they find loveliness in the lowliest things - it impressed me to transform every day into moments of discovery and a desire to find beauty everywhere.
Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi has bragging rights as host to one of Asia's top awarding-winning restaurants. Dine over dynamic French cuisine at the two-Michelin-starred culinary hot spot, SÉZANNE.
The accolades for 2023 include Best Restaurant in Japan, #2 on Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, and #37 on The World's 50 Best Restaurants lists.
With a relaxed luxury ambiance and a windowed show kitchen, guests can engage and enjoy watching Executive Chef Daniel Calvert curate plated precision and mouthwatering magic. What is the key to such success? "Consistency is the key, says Calvert, "Anyone can do something great once. Success lies in doing the same things over and over again, striving for excellence on every plate."
For any time of day fare, MAISON MARUNOUCHI is a Parisian-style restaurant with Western and Japanese breakfast, French bistro classics, and all-time favorites for lunch and dinner. Signature dishes to note: Merguez sausage, Tabbouleh with mint yogurt or whole roasted organic chicken, Ratatouille, and Soft Polenta. Not to be missed, Afternoon Tea at MAISON MARUNOUCHI. One of the highlights of my stay, thanks to the Pâtisserie perfection of Swiss transplant Executive Pastry Chef Patrick Thibaud. With 17 years of experience in haute pastry, Chef Thibaud's approach is centered around "the architecture of taste" − keeping the palate engaged with multiple flavors and textures that marry memorably with each bite. He finds the entire process of bringing a new idea to life deeply satisfying- during my visit, his inspiration was the flowers from his native Switzerland. While seated on the rounded white upholstered couch, the first segment of the two-hour service began as the starter was presented onto the light gray leather table top. The tea and beverages were fine, but the guests reserved seats for the Instagram-worthy savory and sweet edible art display. I observed the few patrons at intimate tables around me, dressed to impress, enjoying each delectable bite only after taking several photos of each petite pastry: Lavender and Apricot Macaron, Orange Flower Financier, Violet and Raspberry Cheesecake, Chamomile and Lemon Honey Choux to name a few. I admit to taking pictures of the colorful creations before slowly savoring their sweetness.
From sweetness to secluded quiet, I make my way on foot to the Imperial Palace grounds, home to the Emperor of Japan. Surrounded by thick walls, wide moats, and meticulously kept gardens, it's an oasis of green in the center of a cement jungle. In the city, you can feel the vibrancy of the people, but once you're on the Imperial Palace grounds, you can absorb the natural beauty and the quiet calm.
Japanese Proverb: Kachou Fuugetsu
**Translation: Flower, Bird, Wind, Moon
Meaning: Learn about yourself through experiencing the beauties of nature. The proverb refers to seeing the beauty in each season surrounding you and understanding that those things, and each of us, are beautiful at different times of the year and in different ways. "Flower, Bird, Wind, Moon" means the bright moon we see in Winter is no less beautiful than the moon in Summer; the wind we feel in Spring is different than the breeze through the trees in Autumn. We find ourselves and our happiness in nature -if we are open to it. Being in Japan, I have adopted the culture's deep appreciation for the miraculous changes in the seasons and how everything in nature, the good and the bad, is perfect and must be respected.
A spa day is always a good day—first, in-room breakfast service. Next, get the blood flowing in the fully equipped fitness center, then let the relaxation begin. With full use of the spa facilities before my treatment, I spend time in the ofuro bath and steam room in preparation for being pampered. My selected self splurge, the latest in rejuvenating facial treatments - Dermadrop TDA. I'm confident in the results of German technology combined with the meticulous skill of onsite practitioner Ms. Takahashi. A non-invasive micro-dermabrasion with supercharged ingredients to suit my needs, she suggests the Mitocell cartridge for my fine lines and wrinkles. I put my trust in the expert and the happy results: When FaceTiming my husband that evening, he took notice, said I was "glowing," and asked what I had done that day. A spa day is always a good day.
Japan's culture respects nature, and that sentiment is echoed in their kindness and respect for their fellow man.
Japanese Proverb: Uogokoroarebamizugokoroari
**Translation: If a fish is kind to water, the water will be kind to fish.
Meaning: If someone shows kindness, their kindness will be returned- an excellent reminder to show respect to others. There is very little crime in the country compared to other places worldwide. Japan has one of the lowest homicide and robbery rates; walking in Tokyo any time of day or night, I felt completely safe. One would guess a contributing factor to low crime is pure respect for one another. Not only is it a safe country, but it is spotless. A metropolis the size of Tokyo, and there is no trash in sight. During my entire visit to the country, I did not spy a can or bottle on the sidewalk or a stray piece of paper blowing in the wind. I learned, for example, that if someone eats/drinks something from a vending machine, there are no trash cans on the streets because taking the trash with them to their homes is customary. Again, respect for their surroundings and kindness toward one another- a goal worth striving for.
To highlight the kindness of this country, I'll offer a tender experience. My contact at the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi is Ms. Otake. On my last day at the Hotel, she met up with me and asked if I had slept well the night before. My eyes welled up as I overshared how my mother had recently passed, and I couldn't sleep because I was missing her. As my tears crossed the barrier of my eyes and streamed down my face, Ms. Otake felt compassion for me and relayed her recent loss of her grandfather. She explained that Buddhist people try not to cry for their lost loved ones in fear their tears will rain upon them. Instead, we must try to be happy and smile so that the sun will continue to shine on them - a comforting thought.
The concept of "omoiyari" is of high value to the Japanese people.
There is no equivalent word in the English language for it.
Omoi means thought.
Yari is derived from yaru, which means give or send.
So omoiyari means to give your thoughts to others.
Much like sympathy or empathy, this concept helps people understand the joys and pain others feel so everyone can live harmoniously. Ms. Otake felt compassion for my loss, but as I prepared to leave the unique urban property, she handed me a bag from the gift shop and said it was something to hold onto whenever I missed my mother. Inside the Four Seasons tote, a teddy bear dressed in a kimono. It was a considerate and kind offering that touched my heart.
As I entered the taxi and waved goodbye to the genuine, smiling faces of the Four Seasons associates, a rush of gratitude washed over me.
Japanese proverb: sumeba miyako
**Translation: If you live (there), it's the capital or the best place to be.
Meaning: Wherever you live, you come to love it. It becomes the most essential place in the world- home is where you make it. I can see why people are drawn to this country, why so many love to visit again and again, and why so many others call this extraordinary place, the land of the rising sun, "home."