And into the forest I go...
Desolation Hotel - Lake Tahoe
By Brandi Brower, Travel Editor
My recent trip to California was a journey of contrasts, as I had the chance to explore two breathtaking regions. The first part of my adventure was in sunny, glamorous Newport Beach, a bayside retreat steeped in history and luxury. From surf to slopes, in stark contrast, my second stop was the serene Sierras of South Lake Tahoe, a destination of unparalleled natural beauty where stars and tech titans escape to 6,000 feet above sea level in Heavenly Valley.
Located just over an hour from the Reno airport, the ascent and descent via Highway 50 is a fantastic journey to our end goal. The first glimpse of the iconic freshwater lake, the largest alpine lake in the country, is a sight that will leave you speechless. This slice of heaven, a favorite among 15 million visitors annually, is a must-visit for any nature lover.
Long-time resident, founder, and former CEO of tech company Belkin International Inc., outdoor enthusiast, billionaire Chet Pipkin had a vision for bringing a lux boutique hotel to the area. With his brother, Eric, the dream of creating an eco-luxury micro-resort became a reality. Opening just two years ago, The Desolation Hotel is a five-star wilder "nest" that has set the bar for what high-end properties can accomplish to help the setting where they reside, all while maintaining a deep commitment to environmental sustainability.
The Desolation Hotel is named after its proximity to the protected Desolation Wilderness. Desolation is a noun meaning complete emptiness or destruction, anguished misery, or loneliness. This definition attached to the property name is ironic: destruction and misery vs. constructing an environmentally friendly edifice to bring positive change to the area. That positive change was the philanthropist's incentive from its conception, and sustainability was paramount to the project.
This beautiful region was a favorite of legendary preservationist John Muir. Pipkin and Muir share a passion for the Sierra Nevadas and stewardship of the natural surroundings. The famous mountaineer wrote many reflections on this area. I'll use several Muir-isms to accentuate this incredible destination.
"Tahoe is surely not one but many. As I curve around its heads and bays and look far out on its level sky, fairly tinted and fading in pensive air, I am reminded of all the mountain lakes I ever knew, as if this were a kind of water heaven to which they all had come." ~John Muir.
The beauty of the natural surroundings, as described by Muir, is truly inspiring and will leave you in awe. The 191 square mile freshwater lake is the striking focal point of the Tahoe basin, 12 miles broad and 22 miles long with a 72-mile circumference; it's the second deepest lake in the U.S. with a depth of 1,645 feet at its lowest point, water so transparent you can see objects lower than 70 feet, this clarity contributes to it being one of the purest bodies of water in the world. The lake straddles the state lines of Nevada and California, with 2/3rds of the shoreline in the Golden State. A few minutes walking from the Desolation Hotel, you can access one of the many beaches that encompass "Big Blue," as it is fondly referred to.
"Keep close to Nature's heart... and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean." ~John Muir
There are a variety of trees in these woods, but mainly Ponderosa, Jeffery, and Sugar pines that grow up to 200 feet tall. *Desolation Hotel partners with the Sugar Pine Foundation, planting a tree in the Tahoe area for every night a guest stays. According to recent estimations, there are 75 million trees in the Tahoe Basin, in contrast to the 2 million standing tall back in the 1800s when Muir sauntered the Sierras. As for climbing a mountain, there are five mountain peaks above 9000 feet and 585 miles of official trails to discover and "wash your spirit clean."
"Between every two pines is a doorway to a new world." ~John Muir
I enter the doorway into my accommodations, one of only 21 suites and townhomes on site, which gives guests the feeling of a private experience. Tucked among the pines, the muted but sleek mountain-modern Desolation Hotel was designed to emulate the natural landscape — To preserve as many trees as possible, the resort was built to wrap around the trees on site. Trees that couldn't be salvaged were removed and relocated within the resort in new forms, benches throughout the pool and walkway areas, and exterior beams. The aggregation of tall black buildings with light wood beams blends in with its surroundings yet stands out with its aesthetic. Inside, the three-story townhouse is casual and homey, as is the vibe in general. There is no valet service here; instead, there is an individual garage with a car park code and an E.V. charger. The hotel has 20, the highest concentration of electric vehicle charging stations in the area, convenience for car owners, and cleaner air for everyone. The parking lot tiles are designed to capture snow and rain best, ensuring Big Blue's beautiful azure color and preventing runoff.
The realization of the Pipkin brothers' eco-conscious goals was made possible through the collaboration with Monarch Architecture and the execution by Sierra Sustainable Builders. The hotel's commitment to sustainability was evident in every aspect, from the green building practices that reduced the carbon footprint, to the high-efficiency appliances, and the choice of local, sustainable materials. With an average of 300 days of sunshine, the team maximized natural light with hidden rooftop solar arrays and skylights on the upper floors. This commitment to sustainability is not just part of the construction, but it's also part of the hotel's identity, inspiring guests to be more aware and conscious of protecting and preserving the natural beauty surrounding us.
"Everybody needs beauty...places to play in and pray in where nature may heal and cheer and give strength to the body and soul alike." ~John Muir
The beauty within the Alpine Studios, Granite Suites, and my accommodation in the three-story El Dorado townhome is attributed to the all-female design team of Studioette out of Oakland, California. Combining elements of Scandinavian design and Japanese tranquility, the team created the perfect upscale "live, work, play" vibe that feels more like a residential retreat than a hotel. Deliberate design features: kitchenettes with Bertazzoni gas range, microwave, disposal, dishwasher, full-size refrigerator/freezer, and stackable washer/dryer, not one but two, two-way gas fireplaces, both sharing the embers glow out onto the two private balconies, with one patio dawning an open-air soaking tub to view the stars while relaxing. Sweet suite touches include Frette linens and robes, Grown Alchemist toiletries, a walk-in shower and bathtub, heated bathroom floors, a Dyson hairdryer, spices for cooking enthusiasts, a Chemex pour-over glass coffee maker, automated skylight shades, two 55" T.V.s with Hulu + Live T.V., and not surprisingly, Belkin Soundform Bluetooth speakers and Belkin Boost Charge wireless chargers, curated artwork throughout, all combine to create a cozy yet contemporary cottage feel.
"To dine with a glacier on a sunny day is a glorious thing and makes common feast of meat and wine ridiculous. The glacier eats hills and sunbeams." ~John Muir
When dining onsite, Maggie's is a great place to enjoy a "feast of meat and wine," respectfully. Named after Maggie McPeak, a vanguard for female explorers, she was the first woman to ascend nearly every Western alpine summit, tearing down the rules for women in the wilderness. The intimate indoor-outdoor eatery on the third floor of the main building has a bit of a tree-house feel as the patio decking wraps around the saved pine tree growing tall alongside the restaurant. With a two-sided fireplace, outdoor heaters, and umbrellas, patrons can dine al fresco in every weather. A wall of wines is used as a focal point the minute you walk in, reaching up to the vaulted ceiling. But the names of the clever cocktails with sketches of employees' faithful four-legged friends make up the libations menu: a Stoli Vanil drink named Marley's Mellow Mood, with a drawing of a black lab named Marley. The drink menu signals that canines are allowed at the hotel. Chet Pipkin's white lab Harriet's dog bed in the lobby is another sign that dogs are welcome guests at the Desolation. The feast options vary seasonally, changing the modern American menu featuring whatever is fresh and readily available. We enjoyed the starters of fried stuffed olives, tomato and basil arancini, rounding out the meal with coconut red curry glazed salmon. A favorite must-try was the strawberry rhubarb french toast on the brunch menu.
"the lake a perfect mirror reflecting the sky and mountains with their stars and trees and wonderful sculpture, all their grandeur refined and doubled,—a marvelously impressive picture, that seemed to belong more to heaven than earth." ~John Muir
There are many things to enjoy in the hotel's backyard: boating, jet skiing, paddle boarding, swimming, kayaking, or burying your toes in the sand and soaking in the splendor. Just a stone's throw away, Desolation guests have unlimited access to Lakeside Beach, a secluded spot where they can take in the gorgeous lake reflection. The Sierra Nevada Mountains beckon exploration, whether mountain biking, hiking, snowshoeing, or skiing at one of the 23 ski areas: 11 Nordic and 12 downhill resorts; these mountain ranges are God's perfect playground. Take a short walk to the Heavenly Valley Gondola, and you're whisked to the mountaintop to touch the sky. Hop on one of the hotel's complimentary bikes and ride on nature trails. Located within blocks of the Nevada state line, roll the dice and try your luck at one of the famous casinos. Alternatively, indulge on the California side, which features the Heavenly Village, shopping, restaurants, bars, and live music. If you feel like staying onsite, the hotel has a heated saltwater pool, a large outdoor jacuzzi, Velma's poolside bar, fire pits, a fitness studio, and, by appointment only, the private Sauna and Cold Shower facility. A relaxation technique known as the "Nordic Cycle" allows guests to spend 20 minutes in the hot sauna and then hop into a cold shower to reap the stimulating benefits. It is a refreshing end-of-day treat.
"Society speaks and all men listen, mountains speak and wise men listen." ~John Muir
Brothers Eric and Chet Pipkin, both modern adventurers with a love of the Tahoe Basin, dreamed of bringing conscious luxury to all who wish to experience the pristine beauty of the Sierra Nevada region. Passionate about preservation, these "wise men" listened to the winds of change and consciously decided to move in a new direction. Taking the low-impact route, concerned with reducing the carbon footprint, utilizing green building practices, choosing local, sustainable materials, high-efficiency appliances, solar power energy, and water-conscious efforts providing filtered water filling stations around the property, the Desolation Hotel is one of the only resorts that draw tap water straight from Lake Tahoe. The Belkin brothers are innovating the hospitality industry with high-end, environmentally friendly accommodations. They would love to be copied in their blueprint to protect Big Blue and its surroundings. These philanthropist founders host yearly community events that raise money for local worthy causes: youth centers, fire victims, first responders, trail systems repair, schools and colleges, and environmental nonprofits; the Desolation Hotel team has raised more than $250,000 yearly for the Tahoe community. Dare they the stewards of the Sierras?
"Another wonderful Sierra day wherein one appears to be dissolved and absorbed and sent pulsing onward we know not wherein. Life seems neither long nor quick, and we take no extra heed to keep time or make haste than do the trees and stars. This is actual freedom, a good practical sort of immortality." ~John Muir
It's my last evening. I pedal my now familiar complimentary bike down to Lakeside Beach to say goodbye to Big Blue. The setting sun's colors change from gold and orange hues to pinks and purples as I take a mental photograph of the extraordinary moment. The yodel of some nearby loons announces their presence, and the water laps up on the shore as if to wave farewell. I inhale this slice of heaven on earth.
"Here ends my forever memorable first High Sierra excursion. I have crossed the Range of Light, surely the brightest and best of all the Lord has built. And, rejoicing in its glory, I gladly, gratefully, hopefully pray I may see it again." ~John Muir
Me too.