Carton House: One of the World’s Best
Carton House
Carton House: One of the World’s Best
by Jen Helmle
For those who say “the grass isn’t always greener on the other side” my reply would have to be you haven’t been to Carton House in Maynooth Ireland. From what I have seen on my recent stay there, the grass definitely appears greener both literally and figuratively.
This 5-star, luxury Fairmont run hotel, the only Fairmont in Ireland and the oldest in its collection of hotels is just impressive in every way. Carton House was named one of the world’s best 42 hotels by the National Geographic Hotel Awards in August 2022. You are going to enter this grand resort which is a crown jewel of the capital city and local county and understand why. Located 20 minutes outside of Dublin, in the county of Kildare, Carton House has a history that spans over 8 centuries. Most of that time it was owned by the Fitzgerald family starting in 1176 until the 1920’s when the son of the 6th Duke sold his birthright to pay off an immense gambling debt. The history is so deep and interesting here my meagre word count limit cannot do it justice. The name ‘Carton’ is old Irish name ‘Baile an Carithe’ translated to Land of the Pillar Stone. There is no shortage of stone on this property with its 5.5 miles of fully walled estate turned resort. It has hosted Queen Victoria, Princess Grace and Prince Rainer to name of few famous past inhabitants. While the history is amazing, its transition to modern-day full-service luxury resort is what I am hoping will inspire you to visit. And the history here will then speak for itself.
Carton House first opened as a hotel in 2002. It was sold in 2017 and has been part of a multi-million-dollar renovation and restoration inside and out. Once you pass through the entrance and are surrounded by 1,100 acres of conservation parkland which sits on the River Rye you will not be able to know where to look first. There are golf courses, ponds, bridges, and ancient woodlands with some of the oldest trees you probably have ever seen all calling to be looked at. And you haven’t even gotten to the hotel yet. When you see the hotel, it is like something out of a European storybook. It is a fairytale country manor house. It is massive, awe inspiring, jaw dropping beautiful and I still cannot believe it was a home to actual people who lived there.
Once you pull up to the front doors by way of a circular stone drive, you are greeted by an old Irish taxi loaded up with vintage bags for you to see. The first of so many visual treats here. The doormen are kind and make your first greeting perfect for after a flight over. The lobby is serene and lovely. Stunning flowers, comfy sofas and chairs are there to be used. You won’t see big welcome desks and signs around. It’s as if you have walked into someone's beautiful parlor and are being greeted by friends to sit and relax. It puts you at ease and ready to immerse yourself in the true Irish country manor resort experience. There are two desks with warm and attentive individuals waiting to check you in and see to your every need. The morning we arrived (very early) our room was not ready and we were quickly checked in to an available room to shower, change, sleep or relax until our room was available. Just past the desk area of the lobby sits one of the hotels 4 restaurants, Kathleen’s Kitchen and the Courtyard Bar. More on those to come.
The resort has 169 luxury guestrooms. If you were to stay in the “newer” and “newly” renovated The Garden Wing of the hotel you would access it through glass lined walls overlooking the grounds from the lobby. These rooms have all modern amenities and many have balconies or patios to bring the views of the surrounding gardens, walking trails, golf courses and woodlands right to your room. This wing also hosts the award-winning spa and indoor pool. If a travel back in time guestroom is what you are wanting, then you must stay in The House section of the hotel that dates back to 1739. Located off the other side of the lobby and in the actual part that was the Palladian style mansion is a treat. Just walking to get to your room you are treated to history everywhere in the rooms you walk through, the art and accessories, the circular staircase that now hosts an elevator in the middle. If you want to walk you can travel up stone stairs with treads worn down by over 500 years of people walking up and down them. This section has 18 staterooms and suites that have been thoughtfully restored to maintain the Victorian features and each room is unique with its own charm and character. These rooms feature spacious living areas with classic furnishings, custom made beds, fabulous ornate wallpaper, and art that showcases and highlights that specific period in time. They also have all the modern amenities such as huge soaking tubs and showers to make relaxing in these custom rooms not hard at all. Whichever accommodation you choose it will not disappoint.
After all that laying around it’s time to get outside and explore this walled wonderland. Let’s talk golf. Ok conversation over. I know nothing about golf. Can’t even hit a mini golf ball. And don’t want to but I was lucky to have my husband John with me and he plays golf. He was lucky enough to golf with our new friend Des, a friend of a friend and golf member at Carton House. It has hosted the Irish Open three times, the World Amateur Team Championship in 2018 and many international tournaments throughout the years. There is not one but two championship golf courses here. The O’Meara and Montgomerie courses. They have also been renovated and refreshed since 2017. I will quote my husband saying the courses are “challenging” and “full of deep bunkers.” I translate that into I think he’s not that great at golf and got a lot of balls in the sand traps. Not to worry because if you are looking to sharpen or improve your golf beyond the two amazing courses here you can attend private lessons, clinics or have on- course tutorials from the Golf Ireland Academy also located on the grounds of the resort. The academy has private teeing areas, all sorts of high-tech golf stuff I know nothing about (I don’t want to lie to my readers!) and PGA professionals looking to make your golf dreams and your skill set even better. There is also a pro shop filled with all the gear a golfer could wish for and locker rooms. If you don’t golf, don’t worry, there is still plenty to do. The resort has bicycles for riding the many trails, woods and gardens. There are also walking trails and one that is paved and will take you right into the university village of Maynooth with its restaurants and pubs just a 15-minute walk from the resort. Tennis? They have many courts. You want to learn falconry? Who doesn’t? They have that. Archery? They have that too. You can take canoe, fishing, kayaking and boating excursions off of the Rye Water and see all of the conservation wildlife that is abundant all over the grounds. Like picnics? I do. Only with champagne. Luckily you can choose one of the many scenic areas available and they will have a picnic especially made for you. Take the time to try one of these and many other unique activities at Carton House to make your stay even more memorable. Now if you like to be pampered then they have you covered. The Carton House has a luxury spa waiting to treat you to specialized facial and body treatments such as massages, seasonal treatments and facial packages to help you feel as good as you will look. A gym is stocked with cardio and strength equipment so you won’t miss a workout. There is a relaxation room and 18-meter pool to use as well. The skilled staff will make sure your experience is top notch.
Now you definitely need to eat (and drink) after all those activities. You will not go hungry or thirsty at The Carton House. Must try dining experiences here are plenty. The morning breakfast in The House is amazing. Overlooking the courtyard boasting the Rose Garden, designed by Lady Emily to hide her children while they were playing, you will be served an array of fresh pastries, breads and fruits as well as fresh juices, hot teas and beverages. The menu serves traditional and contemporary hot breakfast entrées to start your day in the best way. Gluten free like me? Not to worry, they have many delicious options that you will not feel like you are missing out at all. Do you want to skip breakfast and go right to afternoon tea? You should because then you can have champagne (although it's never too early for champagne). Every space to have tea here is amazing but I say have it in the gold salon. You will feel like the aristocrats that used to enjoy the same pastime here. Absolutely breathtaking from the floor to the ceiling it is an unforgettable treat of the finest teas, China cups, scones, traditional bites and pastries. Do not forget the champagne!!! If fine dining is on your must do list you don’t have to walk more than a few steps out to the Morrison Room. It is a destination in the Dublin area. To eat in this grand and stunning dining room will be a memorable occasion. The 7-course tasting menu with a defined French flair lets you experience all the best local offerings of Kildare County and the region. A must is the local cheese with honey produced on the resort from the resident bees and beekeeper. The honey alone is worth the experience. For more casual dining Kathleen’s Kitchen located off the lobby in what used to be the servants' kitchens and was the heart of the manor home offers lunch and dinner daily and has an open kitchen concept featuring local Irish cheeses, oysters and casual but still amazing fare. The Courtyard Bar is also located outside Kathleen's Kitchen and serves light bites and craft cocktails. You can enjoy a morning coffee here and a martini at night. The glass walls overlooking an outdoor courtyard and gardens has comfy chairs, couches and lighting to keep you going from day until night. The service is warm and friendly to you feel happy to kick back and unwind. If you are willing to travel outside of The House section of the hotel and walk across a small walled courtyard you will get to the Carriage House. This is a sophisticated gastropub was an actual carriage lodge to the Fitzgerald family. It offers a true Irish hello as you walk in. Especially popular with golfers and guests alike you can relax, socialize and eat some seriously good food while in this cozy site. I spent a good amount of time here enjoying the amazing vegetarian soups, seafood chowder, Caesar salad, chicken tikki masala and the Kilmore Black Sole to name a few. You obviously must have a fresh tapped Guinness while sitting at the bar. I didn’t but my husband sure did and I was introduced to the baby Guinness. Not a Guinness at all. Make sure you try one. Two places I did not get to experience because they are reserved for advanced booking but looked amazing were The Duke’s rest located off the lobby in the old game hanging room. This venue is exclusively for wine tasting. Also, The Whiskey Library. Need I say more? All things whiskey sipped in an exclusive library setting.
My stay at Carton House felt too way too short. It’s relaxing and beautiful surroundings left me thinking I need to stay longer to explore more of this elegant retreat and all that Ireland has to offer. I loved every minute of enjoying the warm Irish welcomes and smiles and generous hospitality. There’s an Irish proverb that says, “The best things in life are the people we love, the places we have been and the memories we have made along the way.” I hope you can come here to this place and make memories with the people you love.